Every Sunday there is a market of arts, crafts, antiques and junk (my addition) that is colorful and fun to walk through. We hopped on the 61 bus and in 20 minutes we arrived close to the beginning of the market at the Dorrego Plaza in San Telmo. There were plenty of people and the first thing that we noticed were quite a few American tourists - yes, this is definitely a market for tourists. It was late morning and the sun was pretty hot. The Plaza was the busiest area with a number of buskers, musicians and a couple of tango dancers soliciting your chance to pose with them for pictures at a price.

The goods being sold were varied - items of clothing, hand made stuff, lots of jewelry, hats, antiques (or maybe reproductions) and souvenir junk. From the Plaza we headed down Defensa all the way to the Mayo Plaza which turned out to be 1.4 km in the blazing sun. The stalls also expanded into the side streets along the way. I bought my required refrigerator magnet and we bought a set of leather place mats That's it - out of the millions of items on display. Here are some more pictures of stuff.






The architecture and antique shops along the street were quite interesting and I'd like to go back during the week when there is no market. There were lots of cafes and restaurants but by the time we got to the Mayo Plaza at the other end - we didn't see anything suitable there so decided to head back to our neighborhood and the Rodi Restaurant that we liked so much a few weeks ago. However, when we arrived at the restaurant - several blocks from the bus stop - we were very disappointed to find that it was closed on Sundays. By now we were thirsty and hungry and so we succumbed to one of the touristy restaurants near the Recoleta Cemetery, lured by the plate of the day - Trucha for 75 pesos.
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Rib-eye steak rare |
It was too hot to sit outside so we went in to a welcoming cool interior with lots of wood and an upscale appearance. The waiter was friendly and the service was good. I ordered the Ojo de Bife - which is rib eye steak - first time I've ordered this particular cut in BA. We've never been able to get them to cook a steak medium rare the way we prefer it so this time I said "Muy, muy jugoso". I was not optimistic but even if it came slightly pink, I would be content. Well, surprise! My steak arrived and it was rare! I was quite happy with it. The french fries were just o.k. and there was a little salad also on the plate. We did notice, however, that the food here was more expensive than where we've been previously but we were kind of desperate. We had a large Stella Artoris bottle of beer to rehydrate and were soon feeling better. John ordered the trout and it was the pink salmonated kind which he pronounced o.k. However, when we received the bill, we were surprised to see the beer about double what we've paid at other restaurants, a large addition of a "table service" charge and added to that a tip. Hmmm. This restaurant was definitely a tourist trap - average food at above average prices and then add on charges. Obviously we won't go back. Lesson learned.
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